The exact timing of lawn care tasks depends upon the climate in your region. If you get snow in your area, start when you are confident the snow has stopped. Or, start your yard work when the local forsythia plants begin blooming or lilac bushes begin to flower. For homeowners in most regions, there are certain tasks you should complete in the spring to foster a healthy lawn the rest of the year. Make a checklist of these steps, and you’ll be off to a green start.
Spring Lawn Care Steps
Think of this as a spring-cleaning for your lawn. Turfgrasses are somewhat tender and vulnerable in the early spring, however, so it’s best to wait until the lawn begins to green up, which signifies the grass blades are firmly rooted and the plants are actively growing. Using a flexible leaf rake, rake thoroughly but gently to help break up deep thatch. If you notice lots of grass blades stuck together, a lawn disease called snow mold may be to blame. New grass may have difficulty penetrating these matted patches, and raking can solve the problem. A lawn aerator creates openings in lawn turf that allows water and air to penetrate the soil and reach the grassroots. You can rent a lawn aerator at a big box hardware store, or, if you have a small lawn, use a hand aerator to do it. Spring is not the ideal time to aerate the lawn, but circumstances may require it. If soil is compacted to the point that existing grass can’t grow, it may be necessary to aerate in the spring. Generally, though, spring aerating is discouraged because the aeration holes provide a perfect spot for weed seeds to germinate. Lawn weeds (especially crabgrass) are the first seeds to germinate in the spring, and aerating the lawn stirs them up and gives them an ideal home. If you must aerate in the spring, consider doing it around Memorial Day, after weeds have started growing but before they go to seed. Grass likes a neutral pH, and, if your soil is well outside this range it can be subject to moss growth. A variety of soil amendments can be used to nudge the pH back to an optimal level for growing grass. Adding ground limestone, for example, is a common method for lifting the pH of acidic soils. However, this is not a quick fix, as the liming takes hold gradually. Before you add soil amendments, send a soil sample to your local cooperative extension office to determine your soil’s acidity. The cooperative extension office is a free educational resource offering scientific-based assistance in agriculture, horticulture, and other areas of expertise. All you have to do is call, check on their website, or visit your local extension office, and they can advise you on how much lime per square foot you’ll need. You will need a fertilizer drop spreader to apply the lime. Soil that is too alkaline can also cause lawn problems. Your extension office may recommend a top-dressing of compost or elemental sulfur to lower the pH of extremely alkaline soils. It is possible to apply seed only to the visible bare patches, but it is also quite common to overseed the entire lawn to ensure that the lawn remains thick and healthy. This can also be a way to introduce new varieties of grass seed into your lawn. For example, if you’ve recently lost some shade trees, overseeding with a sunny-grass mix can help your previously shady lawn continue to thrive. Fall is the preferred time to do your overseeding, but if your grass is in dire need of help, you can do it in spring. Be prepared to contend with some crabgrass cropping up and feeding off the fertilizer. However, many experts recommend a lighter feeding in spring and a heavier one in late fall for cool-season grasses. Too much fertilizer in spring can lead to disease and weed problems, and if you fertilized in late fall your lawn still has fertilizer to feed on in spring. To fight crabgrass, you may need to use both, since this annual weed is very tough to eradicate. Crabgrass begins its assault on lawns in spring when temperatures are 65 to 70 degrees for several days. Pre-emergent herbicides address weeds before their seedlings can even emerge. They work by forming a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil that coats seeds and prevents them from growing roots and shoots. If you are using pre-emergent herbicides, don’t plan on doing any core aeration until the fall. You will puncture the shield and decrease the weed killer’s effectiveness. And be aware that most pre-emergent herbicides also work against grass seeds. Overseeding is not very effective if you’re also applying a traditional pre-emergent herbicide. In years where you are laying down pre-emergent weed killer, wait until early fall to do your overseeding with turfgrass seed.
While it might seem like a chore, spot-treating becomes quite easy if you start early in the spring, even before the first mowing. As the season progresses, a few minutes of spot-spraying (or weed-pulling) after each mowing will keep your lawn looking great all season. If you choose to spray a post-emergent herbicide for dandelions, get one formulated for broadleaf weeds. For organic green thumbs who do not use pesticides or herbicides on the lawn, you can harvest the dandelion greens by hand. Other spring weeds to deal with include chickweed, white clover, wild violets, and others, though these usually make their appearance after the dandelions, in late spring and into summer. Among the key tune-up tasks is sharpening the mower blade. A regular sharpening will ensure the blade severs, rather than tears, the grass plants, leading to a nice green lawn rather than one with ragged brown tips.
